Monday, December 26, 2011

Help with Sunscreen

Sunscreen 101

**Warning: This is a long post, be warned!


So, how many of you read EWG.org/skindeep and got overwhelmed with all the information on their website, enough to say "forget it" and go back to ignorant cosmetic bliss?? (I raise my hand).


I remember stumbling upon the EWG website a few years back, and it was information overload.  Plus, most of the stuff I was using had not-too-hot scores. =(  What was a girl to do?  I wasn't just going to throw everything I owned out and spend money to sample healthier options (with the risk of breaking out).  So now that I've graduated school, I have a lot more time to research things and educate myself on this stuff, and hopefully change out my products little by little. 


Here's a quick breakdown of information regarding sunscreens, as well as some good, easy-to-read links that provide you with more information:


  • There are two different types of sunscreen available: mineral/physical and chemical.  Mineral suncreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  Chemical sunscreens include:  avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octylcrylene, etc.  There are a lot more chemical sunscreens out there, but the ones I've listed are just a few.
  • Mineral sunscreens sit on top of skin and primarily reflect or scatter UV light.   
  • Chemical sunscreens get absorbed into your skin and absorb or scatter UV light.
So....which one should I use?

Well, that depends on you.  Some research indicates that chemical sunscreens may enter your cells and disrupt the functions of your hormones.  Some people have actually been tested and found to have oxybenzone in their blood!  Crazy.  EWG says they prefer people pick mineral/physical sunblocks over chemical sunblocks, and if you do opt for chemical, make sure it's Avobenzone 3%.  The problem with Avobenzone is that it tends to break down quickly in sunlight and needs to be stabilized.  How companies stabilize Avobenzone, I have no idea!  I'm moving from chemical sunscreens to strictly mineral/physical sunblocks, personally.  I don't want to add any additional chemicals to my skin care regiment....I'm pretty sure I use enough.

Mineral/physical sunblocks

Image from http://www.mommamuse.com/2008/09/29/dancing-stick-figures/


So, then, mineral/physical sunblocks are completely safe then?

Not necessarily.  It depends on the size of the particle.  I know, but don't stop reading now! I'll try to simplify what all this means for you. :)

The main problems with these physical sunblocks is that they can cause a whitish cast on your face.  To combat this, a lot of cosmetic companies micronize the zinc to minimize that whitish look to your skin.  The problem with micronizing particles is how small they make the particles.  As long as the particle size is greater than 100nm (nm=nanometers), research suggests that this size particle will not be absorbed by healthy skin for the most part, but may be more toxic "to living cells and the environment (1)."  They are also concerned about inhalation of powders and sprays, because then it can get into your lungs.  This is why EWG doesn't recommend sprays and fine powder formulations of physical sunblock.  The only way to really find out if your products are micronized and it's size, is unfortunately to contact the company.  This has also made me paranoid about my finishing powder that looks pretty micronized to me, but I'll save that for another post.   

And, to top it off, Titanium Dioxide doesn't protect you from the longer UVA rays like Zinc Oxide does.  Let me back up for a second.  I'm sure you've heard of UVB and UVA rays, right?  UVB rays are responsible for sunburns.  UVA rays are longer than UVB rays and are responsible for deep wrinkles, pigmentation and skin sagging (2).  This is why it's so important to get a broad spectrum sunblock that protects from both UVA and UVB rays.  Zinc Oxide protects from both long UVA and UVB rays, whereas Titanium Dioxide alone only protects against UVB and short UVA rays.  So, guess who's looking into a good Zinc Oxide sunscreen that doesn't clog pores? ME.  Reviews to come after I find a good one!

I've posted some good links below with good sunscreen information:



**Please note that I'm not endorsing either LUCA or Badger sunscreen, as I have not tried either one.  Their websites have good information, which is why I provided it as a resource!  I plan on trying the Badger body sunblock soon, although I've heard it does leave a white cast on your skin.  But hey, I'm not trying to win a beauty contest, so a white cast I can deal with. Just my two cents. :)





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