Non-acid skin care regimen week 3

So....it's been about three weeks since I've gotten to use my beloved Retinol (Cosmedix's Define) treatment and I wanted to post about what's been going on with my skin.

First, let me state that my skin care philosophy has always been "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," for other people.  But being as how I am a skin care junkie myself, this adage was always really hard for me to stick with.  When I would notice something working, I'd stumble upon a forum where everyone is raving about a new product, so of course, I would have to check this puppy out myself.  Then I would try it, and it would either break me out, or it wouldn't do anything special to justify the price, so it would get returned.  Once in a while, I would find something I loved, and then I would be ALL about that product and try out more things in that product line.
Enter Cosmedix.

The minute I started using Cosmedix Define, I could see a difference in my complexion:  less breakouts and it just looked nicer in the mornings after I would use it at night.  I used this product for about 1.5 years before I stumbled upon the "non-acid based skin care system" 302.  
It was really REALLY hard for me to give up using my Define, but I had to.  I had to be off using any acid-based product for about 1-2 weeks before giving this non-acid line a try.  I crossed my fingers and took the plunge.


 
The first week I went without my Define,  my skin actually felt a little drier, but no new massive breakouts, so I was happy.

Week 2:  I started using the 302 Sensitive Skin Cleanser (PM) and the Face and Body Bar (AM).  Followed by Calming Mist and the Ointment.   My skin was super dry the first week, and even on some days now.  I read that weaning your skin off of acids can cause dryness, irritation and/or breakouts (eeeeek).  My skin was super dry for the first few days....but it didn't get crazy oily.  Normally, if my skin is dehydrated, it produces more oil to counteract the dryness, but not with this stuff.....iiiiiinteresting.  

Week 3:  I decided to try using some oil to hydrate my skin (Moisture Drops--consists of jojoba oil and avocado oil).  When ever I try something new, I limit the test area to only one area of my face--in this case, my forehead.  Turns out, my forehead didn't like this product so much, so I stopped using this after a few days.  I started breaking out, so that's out!!!! I also started using their Serum, which I like so far.  No new breakouts, and it actually seems to get rid of any existing breakouts/calms my skin.  We'll see what happens in the months to come--apparently it takes a good 3-6 months to really see results. :( Not good for the impatient skin care gal like me, but I'm trying!

The only down side to this program (which I guess could also be a good side?), is that they're really against  using any form of liquid sunscreen on your face unless you know you'll be in the sun for a long period of time.  They believe putting on topical sunscreens will clog your pores, so they advocate using mineral powders as your sole form of SPF.  They do sell their own liquid face formulations for those who will be spending lots of time in the sun, but I haven't read rave reviews about them.  This is a down side for me because I've been using SPF topically for the past 8 years, I hate getting tan, and I want sun protection that doesn't involve wearing face makeup!  But, having said that, I'm going to try the mineral makeup thing and hope that doesn't clog me.  I'll keep you posted. :)

EDIT from 3/4/14: I'll be posting an update on my non-acid skin care regimen in the next few weeks. I've been continuing on the non-acid skin care regimen for over two years with really good results! Stay tuned.

Acid-Free Skin Care Regimen

Gentle skin care?  I stumbled upon an acid-free skin care regimen while I was lurking around on the forums at Essential Day Spa.  I read how long term acid use (Lactic, Salicylic, Retinols) actually damages your skin and will show signs of damage in your later years.  I'm not 100% sure if this is true, because I haven't actually researched this matter, but I like the idea of not using acids on my skin.  I've been using some form of acid for about the last decade (yikes, that just made me feel really old), and I've decided to take the plunge and try this acid-free stuff and see where it takes me!  I'm not sure it's going to work miracles like it has for some (and hasn't for others), so let's see what happens!  I'll keep posting updates, charting my progression!

 

My daily skin care regiment

**Update: I've updated my skincare to only use more natural products, so this regiment is null. Click here if you'd like to see my current regiment!**

I've gotten a request to blog about what my current skin care regiment is, so here it is.

**I did want to say that this regiment may be changing, as I'm currently looking into healthier, synthetic/preservative free cosmetics that score low on the EWG.org/skindeep website.  I'm doing lots of research, ordering samples of stuff and trying them out, and seeing what the effects will be before I write about them. =)

Morning:
-Cleanse with Benefit Clean by Cosmedix (I like this because it cleans well and doesn't irritate my skin)
-Tone with Mystic by Cosmedix (it's supposed to be a hydrating spray treatment, but i spritz a cotton pad 3-4x with this stuff and use it as a toner--has witch hazel in it which has some antibacterial properties!)
-Apply 3 drops of Obagi Vitamin C serum 10% all over face
-Moisturize with Emulsion by Cosmedix
-Apply DermaDoctor Wrinkle Revenge eye cream with your fourth finger (this actually has a lot of parabens in it, which is a preservative, but I already bought it and have been using it for a month. I'll have to find one with no preservatives very soon.)
-Apply Reflect SPF 30 sunscreen from Cosmedix.  This comes in a spray form so I spray it into my hand 3-4x and apply to my face.   **This sunscreen only contains Titanium Dioxide, and may not protect you from longer UVA rays.  I'm currently looking for a good sunscreen with Zinc Oxide in it to protect me from long UVA rays.  I'll let you know how that goes.)


Image from Graphicsfactory.com

Evening:
-If I wore face make up, I remove my makeup with a CVS makeup removing cloth prior to cleansing with Benefit Clean by Cosmedix.
-Tone with Mystic by Cosmedix
-Apply less than a pea size amount of Define by Cosmedix (this is my lactic acid and retinol over night treatment) on problem areas.
-Moisturize with Emulsion by Cosmedix
-Apply DermaDoctor Wrinkle Revenge eye cream

So you must be wondering....why is everything I use from Cosmedix?  I started off by purchasing a starter kit from them when I went to this esthetician in Newport Beach.  She convinced me into starting a retinol treatment at night instead of using my salicylic acid on blemishes at night (this left my skin really dry).  I was super scared to because I didn't want to deal with the purge period (where it brings out your zits before it starts making your skin better), but I never had that problem with Define.  Just make sure if you start it, you start slowly.  Apply 1x every 3 days for the first week, then apply 1x every 2 days for a week, then you can try applying it every evening.  But if your skin gets sensitive or reacts to it, I would lessen the number of days you use it.  I really liked Define and the Benefit Clean, so I tried the lotion and the sunscreen because none of it made me break out.  A lot of other products I've tried either broke me out or just weren't doing anything for me.  I've had this routine for about the past 1.5 years and it's really been working for me.  Benefit Clean scored a 3 on the website, which isn't that bad.  So I may keep that.  The define scored a 5 or 6, but any retinol product will get you at least that score, because retinols are a pretty strong chemical.

Healthier skin care product reviews to come!!

Help with Sunscreen

Sunscreen 101

**Warning: This is a long post, be warned!


So, how many of you read EWG.org/skindeep and got overwhelmed with all the information on their website, enough to say "forget it" and go back to ignorant cosmetic bliss?? (I raise my hand).


I remember stumbling upon the EWG website a few years back, and it was information overload.  Plus, most of the stuff I was using had not-too-hot scores. =(  What was a girl to do?  I wasn't just going to throw everything I owned out and spend money to sample healthier options (with the risk of breaking out).  So now that I've graduated school, I have a lot more time to research things and educate myself on this stuff, and hopefully change out my products little by little. 


Here's a quick breakdown of information regarding sunscreens, as well as some good, easy-to-read links that provide you with more information:

• There are two different types of sunscreen available: mineral/physical and chemical.  Mineral suncreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  Chemical sunscreens include:  avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octylcrylene, etc.  There are a lot more chemical sunscreens out there, but the ones I've listed are just a few.
• Mineral sunscreens sit on top of skin and primarily reflect or scatter UV light.   
• Chemical sunscreens get absorbed into your skin and absorb or scatter UV light.

So....which one should I use?

Well, that depends on you.  Some research indicates that chemical sunscreens may enter your cells and disrupt the functions of your hormones.  Some people have actually been tested and found to have oxybenzone in their blood!  Crazy.  EWG says they prefer people pick mineral/physical sunblocks over chemical sunblocks, and if you do opt for chemical, make sure it's Avobenzone 3%.  The problem with Avobenzone is that it tends to break down quickly in sunlight and needs to be stabilized.  How companies stabilize Avobenzone, I have no idea!  I'm moving from chemical sunscreens to strictly mineral/physical sunblocks, personally.  I don't want to add any additional chemicals to my skin care regiment....I'm pretty sure I use enough.

Mineral/physical sunblocks

Image from http://www.mommamuse.com/2008/09/29/dancing-stick-figures/

So, then, mineral/physical sunblocks are completely safe then?

Not necessarily.  It depends on the size of the particle.  I know, but don't stop reading now! I'll try to simplify what all this means for you. :)

The main problems with these physical sunblocks is that they can cause a whitish cast on your face.  To combat this, a lot of cosmetic companies micronize the zinc to minimize that whitish look to your skin.  The problem with micronizing particles is how small they make the particles.  As long as the particle size is greater than 100nm (nm=nanometers), research suggests that this size particle will not be absorbed by healthy skin for the most part, but may be more toxic "to living cells and the environment (1)."  They are also concerned about inhalation of powders and sprays, because then it can get into your lungs.  This is why EWG doesn't recommend sprays and fine powder formulations of physical sunblock.  The only way to really find out if your products are micronized and it's size, is unfortunately to contact the company.  This has also made me paranoid about my finishing powder that looks pretty micronized to me, but I'll save that for another post.   

And, to top it off, Titanium Dioxide doesn't protect you from the longer UVA rays like Zinc Oxide does.  Let me back up for a second.  I'm sure you've heard of UVB and UVA rays, right?  UVB rays are responsible for sunburns.  UVA rays are longer than UVB rays and are responsible for deep wrinkles, pigmentation and skin sagging (2).  This is why it's so important to get a broad spectrum sunblock that protects from both UVA and UVB rays.  Zinc Oxide protects from both long UVA and UVB rays, whereas Titanium Dioxide alone only protects against UVB and short UVA rays.  So, guess who's looking into a good Zinc Oxide sunscreen that doesn't clog pores? ME.  Reviews to come after I find a good one!

I've posted some good links below with good sunscreen information:

Badger Sunscreen FAQs

LUCA Sunscreen FAQs

EWG 9 Surprising Truths About Sunscreen

**Please note that I'm not endorsing either LUCA or Badger sunscreen, as I have not tried either one.  Their websites have good information, which is why I provided it as a resource!  I plan on trying the Badger body sunblock soon, although I've heard it does leave a white cast on your skin.  But hey, I'm not trying to win a beauty contest, so a white cast I can deal with. Just my two cents. :)

1. From the EWG website: http://breakingnews.ewg.org/2011sunscreen/sunscreens-exposed/sunscreens-exposed-9-surprising-truths/
2. From LUCA sunscreen website: http://lucasunscreen.com/faq/sun.aspx#q3

Eye Makeup Remover Sticks

Almay Oil-Free Makeup Remover Sticks

I like these travel-size, throw in your purse makeup eraser sticks.  They're good for when your mascara/eyeliner smudges.  They're oil free so there's no oily residue that's left after you touch up using one of these sticks.  It's really easy to use!  

1.  Remove swab from container.

2.  Find end with the purple ring and bend it back until you hear and feel a "snap."

3.  Watch as the other end saturates with oil free makeup remover.

4.  Swipe the swab where you need it to freshen up your makeup!!

It may leave the area a little dry after use, so you may consider dabbing a little bit of eye cream.  If the dryness doesn't bother you or doesn't dry you out at all, you'll have no problems with this!

I like having this in my bag for when I'm out all day and decide to go out later without having any time to freshen up my makeup.  This one trick alone makes my eye makeup look much cleaner, without doing much.

Only $5 for a pack of 24!

Clairsonic Review

Clairsonic: To buy, or not to buy

When I first bought this, it physically hurt me to shell out $200 to purchase.  Now, they have the Mia for $119 and if you buy it from this website, they have a 20% coupon right now: SkinStore.  


I have been using this for about 2 years, and I have to admit, it does make my skin feel very soft.  Does it help remove zits?  Not so much.  But it supposedly helps wash your face and removes dirt and oil better than washing with your hands alone.  Since it does this, it allows your beauty products to work better.  It's the Sonicare for your face!


I used to use this every day for a year, but now I use it 1-2x/week more as an exfoliator.  I don't really think it helps with zits per se, unless the cause of your acne is from poor face cleaning (leaving makeup and dirt on your face in the PM before you go to sleep).  It's nice because it does make your face feel soft, but I'm not sure that it's a necessity.  I use the delicate replacement heads and replace them every 3-4 months.  It comes with a sensitive brush head, which was a little too harsh for my face.  


Verdict:  I like this as an addition to my skin care regiment.  If your skin is already soft, you don't really need to use this.  You could just use an exfoliating treatment 1-2x/week via mask/scrub.  If you have the money and are interested in trying this, you could also buy it from Sephora and return if it you feel that it doesn't really do anything for you.  I love their return policy!  Or, if you have a friend with a Clairsonic, you can buy a cheap replacement head on amazon and try out your friend's Clairsonic--you may feel less return-guilt that way. :)

EWG Website and How to read your results

Ok, so I probably have you a little freaked out now from my previous post, sorry.  Not to freak you out more, but make sure when you look up your item and you see the score, to click on the name of the item to get a break down of why that product got that particular score.  The page should look something like this:

This will give you the actual scary break down of what's in your product.  And don't be fooled by a low score of "1," you'd be surprised to see what the breakdown actually looks like.  The above screen shot is one that I created from "Build your own report" and not verified by EWG.  And yes, sigh, it is for my Algenist Serum.  When I first read that, I thought, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"  My first review, I got past my purge period to start actually liking the product, and now THIS.  I'm still debating on whether I'll finish the bottle or return it to Sephora.

The way I see it, you have to weigh the pros and cons of your product, then decide if it's worth keeping or not.  I have an overnight Retinol treatment that helps keep my skin clear that scored a 5.  I decided to try to look for something that will work just as well with a lower score, but continue using my product until I find my green, holy grail treatment product.  No break out vs. my health, I pick not breaking out.  Kidding!  But I know that breaking out can lower your self-esteem and make you feel terribly self-conscious, so each individual has to make that decision for themselves.  I'm just here to give you information and help you in any way I can. =)