My daily skin care regiment

**Update: I've updated my skincare to only use more natural products, so this regiment is null. Click here if you'd like to see my current regiment!**

I've gotten a request to blog about what my current skin care regiment is, so here it is.

**I did want to say that this regiment may be changing, as I'm currently looking into healthier, synthetic/preservative free cosmetics that score low on the EWG.org/skindeep website.  I'm doing lots of research, ordering samples of stuff and trying them out, and seeing what the effects will be before I write about them. =)

Morning:
-Cleanse with Benefit Clean by Cosmedix (I like this because it cleans well and doesn't irritate my skin)
-Tone with Mystic by Cosmedix (it's supposed to be a hydrating spray treatment, but i spritz a cotton pad 3-4x with this stuff and use it as a toner--has witch hazel in it which has some antibacterial properties!)
-Apply 3 drops of Obagi Vitamin C serum 10% all over face
-Moisturize with Emulsion by Cosmedix
-Apply DermaDoctor Wrinkle Revenge eye cream with your fourth finger (this actually has a lot of parabens in it, which is a preservative, but I already bought it and have been using it for a month. I'll have to find one with no preservatives very soon.)
-Apply Reflect SPF 30 sunscreen from Cosmedix.  This comes in a spray form so I spray it into my hand 3-4x and apply to my face.   **This sunscreen only contains Titanium Dioxide, and may not protect you from longer UVA rays.  I'm currently looking for a good sunscreen with Zinc Oxide in it to protect me from long UVA rays.  I'll let you know how that goes.)


Image from Graphicsfactory.com

Evening:
-If I wore face make up, I remove my makeup with a CVS makeup removing cloth prior to cleansing with Benefit Clean by Cosmedix.
-Tone with Mystic by Cosmedix
-Apply less than a pea size amount of Define by Cosmedix (this is my lactic acid and retinol over night treatment) on problem areas.
-Moisturize with Emulsion by Cosmedix
-Apply DermaDoctor Wrinkle Revenge eye cream

So you must be wondering....why is everything I use from Cosmedix?  I started off by purchasing a starter kit from them when I went to this esthetician in Newport Beach.  She convinced me into starting a retinol treatment at night instead of using my salicylic acid on blemishes at night (this left my skin really dry).  I was super scared to because I didn't want to deal with the purge period (where it brings out your zits before it starts making your skin better), but I never had that problem with Define.  Just make sure if you start it, you start slowly.  Apply 1x every 3 days for the first week, then apply 1x every 2 days for a week, then you can try applying it every evening.  But if your skin gets sensitive or reacts to it, I would lessen the number of days you use it.  I really liked Define and the Benefit Clean, so I tried the lotion and the sunscreen because none of it made me break out.  A lot of other products I've tried either broke me out or just weren't doing anything for me.  I've had this routine for about the past 1.5 years and it's really been working for me.  Benefit Clean scored a 3 on the website, which isn't that bad.  So I may keep that.  The define scored a 5 or 6, but any retinol product will get you at least that score, because retinols are a pretty strong chemical.

Healthier skin care product reviews to come!!

Help with Sunscreen

Sunscreen 101

**Warning: This is a long post, be warned!


So, how many of you read EWG.org/skindeep and got overwhelmed with all the information on their website, enough to say "forget it" and go back to ignorant cosmetic bliss?? (I raise my hand).


I remember stumbling upon the EWG website a few years back, and it was information overload.  Plus, most of the stuff I was using had not-too-hot scores. =(  What was a girl to do?  I wasn't just going to throw everything I owned out and spend money to sample healthier options (with the risk of breaking out).  So now that I've graduated school, I have a lot more time to research things and educate myself on this stuff, and hopefully change out my products little by little. 


Here's a quick breakdown of information regarding sunscreens, as well as some good, easy-to-read links that provide you with more information:

• There are two different types of sunscreen available: mineral/physical and chemical.  Mineral suncreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  Chemical sunscreens include:  avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octylcrylene, etc.  There are a lot more chemical sunscreens out there, but the ones I've listed are just a few.
• Mineral sunscreens sit on top of skin and primarily reflect or scatter UV light.   
• Chemical sunscreens get absorbed into your skin and absorb or scatter UV light.

So....which one should I use?

Well, that depends on you.  Some research indicates that chemical sunscreens may enter your cells and disrupt the functions of your hormones.  Some people have actually been tested and found to have oxybenzone in their blood!  Crazy.  EWG says they prefer people pick mineral/physical sunblocks over chemical sunblocks, and if you do opt for chemical, make sure it's Avobenzone 3%.  The problem with Avobenzone is that it tends to break down quickly in sunlight and needs to be stabilized.  How companies stabilize Avobenzone, I have no idea!  I'm moving from chemical sunscreens to strictly mineral/physical sunblocks, personally.  I don't want to add any additional chemicals to my skin care regiment....I'm pretty sure I use enough.

Mineral/physical sunblocks

Image from http://www.mommamuse.com/2008/09/29/dancing-stick-figures/

So, then, mineral/physical sunblocks are completely safe then?

Not necessarily.  It depends on the size of the particle.  I know, but don't stop reading now! I'll try to simplify what all this means for you. :)

The main problems with these physical sunblocks is that they can cause a whitish cast on your face.  To combat this, a lot of cosmetic companies micronize the zinc to minimize that whitish look to your skin.  The problem with micronizing particles is how small they make the particles.  As long as the particle size is greater than 100nm (nm=nanometers), research suggests that this size particle will not be absorbed by healthy skin for the most part, but may be more toxic "to living cells and the environment (1)."  They are also concerned about inhalation of powders and sprays, because then it can get into your lungs.  This is why EWG doesn't recommend sprays and fine powder formulations of physical sunblock.  The only way to really find out if your products are micronized and it's size, is unfortunately to contact the company.  This has also made me paranoid about my finishing powder that looks pretty micronized to me, but I'll save that for another post.   

And, to top it off, Titanium Dioxide doesn't protect you from the longer UVA rays like Zinc Oxide does.  Let me back up for a second.  I'm sure you've heard of UVB and UVA rays, right?  UVB rays are responsible for sunburns.  UVA rays are longer than UVB rays and are responsible for deep wrinkles, pigmentation and skin sagging (2).  This is why it's so important to get a broad spectrum sunblock that protects from both UVA and UVB rays.  Zinc Oxide protects from both long UVA and UVB rays, whereas Titanium Dioxide alone only protects against UVB and short UVA rays.  So, guess who's looking into a good Zinc Oxide sunscreen that doesn't clog pores? ME.  Reviews to come after I find a good one!

I've posted some good links below with good sunscreen information:

Badger Sunscreen FAQs

LUCA Sunscreen FAQs

EWG 9 Surprising Truths About Sunscreen

**Please note that I'm not endorsing either LUCA or Badger sunscreen, as I have not tried either one.  Their websites have good information, which is why I provided it as a resource!  I plan on trying the Badger body sunblock soon, although I've heard it does leave a white cast on your skin.  But hey, I'm not trying to win a beauty contest, so a white cast I can deal with. Just my two cents. :)

1. From the EWG website: http://breakingnews.ewg.org/2011sunscreen/sunscreens-exposed/sunscreens-exposed-9-surprising-truths/
2. From LUCA sunscreen website: http://lucasunscreen.com/faq/sun.aspx#q3